Wine life: Is Australia looking at another wine glut?

Will Australia experience another wine glut this year? Photo: Illustration: Simon Letch

News straight from the grapevine.

Wine is coming

Remember the last time we had a wine glut in Australia? Remember the cleanskin wine warehouses that popped up everywhere? It was the mid-2000s. Too many vineyards had been planted for an export market that had started to fizzle out. Suddenly, there was a helluva lot of excess plonk sloshing around: all those cancelled export orders had to find a home. It was a bonanza for bargain booze hunters, but not so flash for the bank accounts of the grape growers and winemakers forced to slash prices.

Eventually, exports picked up, particularly to China, where the market grew to more than $1 billion. Boom times were back. But late last year the Chinese government slapped huge tariffs on Australian wine, effectively wiping that market out. And suddenly, again, there’s a huge amount of wine that has to find a new home.

So is it a return to the days of glut? Not at the moment. A lower-than average grape harvest in 2020, interest from other emerging export markets and a surge in local demand for local wine during the pandemic (cellar door sales have been pumping since restrictions were lifted) have delayed the inevitable flood.

But with yields back to normal in 2021 in many regions, and heaps of wine once destined for China hitting the market in coming months, I think we will begin to see more and more special offers and discounting. Perhaps even the odd cleanskin warehouse will pop up.

Wines to charm

The Chalmers family has released some lovely new wines from its vineyard at Heathcote in central Victoria, catering for all tastes, from the obscure (the 2018 Dott. Pavana, a fresh, crunchy light red made from a near-extinct grape variety and sold in 500ml bottles for $28 a pop) to the crowd-pleasing (the 2020 Montevecchio Bianco, $24, a deliciously perfumed blend of Italian white grapes). chalmers.com.au

Winegrowers award

The inaugural winner of the Young Gun of Wine Vineyard of the Year Award is Swinney (see left). This site not only produces some seriously good wines under the Swinney label, but also sells grapes to more than 30 winemakers in WA.

Other winners were Victoria’s Place of Changing Winds (New Vineyard) and Best’s (Old Vineyard) and Ricca Terra in South Australia’s Riverland (Innovative Vineyard). younggunofwine.com

Wine project

In 2020, growers in the under-appreciated Langhorne Creek region in South Australia supplied small batches of grapes to winemakers outside the area to produce one-off wines showcasing the fruit. The initiative is called Project 5255 and the results are really good: a textural, pulpy white 2020 Fiano ($35) made by Charlotte Dalton in the Adelaide Hills, a bold, slurpy 2020 Grenache from Turon (also in the Hills) and a gorgeous, perfumed 2020 Malbec by Aphelion in McLaren Vale. langhornecreek.com

Wine life: Is Australia looking at another wine glut?

Wish list

  • Who Swinney, Frankland River, Western Australia
  • What 2019 Farvie Syrah
  • Why This utterly gorgeous, intensely flavoured, beautifully balanced red wine sets a new benchmark for shiraz in WA.
  • When Anytime over the next 20 years.
  • How much $150
  • Where swinney.com.au

Wine for the planet

Certified organic and available in supermarket bottleshops? What’s not to love? The Coles-owned Vintage Cellars, First Choice and Liquorland chains have upped their organic game with wines such as the very good Marron Creek range from Frankland in Western Australia – a lemony 2018 Chardonnay ($26), silky 2018 Syrah ($24) and elegant 2018 Cabernets ($30) – and, if the budget’s tighter, the new organic range from Jacob’s Creek called Nature’s Craft. The $19 Shiraz Cabernet is a handy quaffer.

Wine zine

Veraison is a new magazine out of Melbourne aimed at and produced by the next generation of wine geeks. With recipes, cartoons, film reviews and poetry alongside winegrower profiles, it’s a fun, refreshing read. Volume Two on sale in August. It’s $22. veraisonmag.com

An award-winning journalist and author, Max has written about wine and drinks for close to 30 years.


LATEST NEWS

NEWS RELATED

17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

Spanner crab, sake vinegar jelly, brown butter emulsion, pea flower and horseradish from Sepia, Sydney. Photo: Dominic Lorrimer Grilled oyster from Igni, Geelong. Photo: Josh Robenstone Uni, koshihikari rice, salted yolk, fish maw, sweet prawns, umami broth from Quay, Sydney. Photo: Brett Stevens Schnitty sanga from Fleet, Brunswick Heads. Photo:…

Read more: 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

Chef Elena Arzak on the best of Basque

The port of San Sebastian. Photo: Getty Images From the first hunk of bread in the morning to the last sip of wine at night, a day in the Basque Country is an opportunity to feast on the region’s natural bounty prepared by its passionate cooks. One of the Basques’ most…

Read more: Chef Elena Arzak on the best of Basque

10 of Australia's best restaurants with views

The Stokehouse in St Kilda. Photo: Supplied From kangaroos to beachside views, here are some of the best tables, and tableaux, around Australia. Arc Dining, Brisbane, QLD Brisbane-born young gun Alanna Sapwell moved back to the Sunshine State from Sydney’s Saint Peter in 2019 to take on this light, airy riverside…

Read more: 10 of Australia's best restaurants with views

Why spiced rum is hot right now

The real heat this winter is brought to you by botanical-infused spiced rum. Photo: iStock Raising the temperature really is rum’s game. If the tropical vibes don’t thaw your chill, the sugarcane spirit will apply naked flame to the problem, and there’s no party a volcano bowl can’t ignite. But…

Read more: Why spiced rum is hot right now

Best places to eat and drink in the Tweed Valley, NSW

Three Blue Ducks restaurant, cafe and produce store at The Farm Byron Bay. Photo: Paul Harris Terry Durack reviews Pipit, the new toast of the north coast It’s not often you learn that a drink is made from butterfly pee. The mind boggles until it’s explained that the butterfly pea is a…

Read more: Best places to eat and drink in the Tweed Valley, NSW

'Deconstructed coffee': It's for snobs, not hipsters, says Melbourne cafe behind beaker brew

Flat what? The ‘deconstructed’ coffee in question. Photo: Facebook Melbourne hipster coffee has social media steaming Cafe review: The Kitchen at Weylandts The manager of a Melbourne cafe at the centre of a social media storm in a coffee cup says its controversial “deconstructed” brew was aimed at the city’s…

Read more: 'Deconstructed coffee': It's for snobs, not hipsters, says Melbourne cafe behind beaker brew

Ten reasons to visit Margaret River, Western Australia

West Australian Gourmet Escape is an extended long weekend of beach barbecues, dinners and tastings. Photo: Ord Photo One of Australia’s great eating and drinking destinations is more compelling than ever. How long does it take to become a “local” in Margaret River? Depends who you ask. Some residents believe…

Read more: Ten reasons to visit Margaret River, Western Australia

The best dishes in Ipoh, Malaysia's food hotspot

Once a tin-mining boomtown, the Malaysian town of Ipoh is now best known as a food destination. Photo: kazhiya  About two hours drive north from Kuala Lumpur, the towering limestone outcrops of Malaysia’s Kinta Valley are suddenly punctuated by the word “Ipoh”, standing tall on the hillside in huge, white,…

Read more: The best dishes in Ipoh, Malaysia's food hotspot

Jugiong: The little town that could

A booze-free beer is now the best-selling drink in bottle shops and pubs

Going bush: How Australian chefs are leaving the city behind

Good Weekend 52 best brunches 2019: Around Australia

10 of Australia's best restaurants with views

10 of Australia's best restaurants with views

Distillers welcome federal budget boost to support Australia's expanding taste for spirits

One perfect day in Beechworth, Victoria

OTHER NEWS