• 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Spanner crab, sake vinegar jelly, brown butter emulsion, pea flower and horseradish from Sepia, Sydney. Photo: Dominic Lorrimer

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Grilled oyster from Igni, Geelong. Photo: Josh Robenstone

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Uni, koshihikari rice, salted yolk, fish maw, sweet prawns, umami broth from Quay, Sydney. Photo: Brett Stevens

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Schnitty sanga from Fleet, Brunswick Heads. Photo: Kate Nutt

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Marron, Geraldton wax and watercress from Orana, Adelaide. Photo: Aaron Fenwick

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Slow-roasted parsnip and apple mousse, Brae, Birregurra.

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Scallop dish from Wildflower, Perth. Photo: Supplied

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Yabby jaffle from Monster Kitchen & Bar, Canberra. Photo: Lee Grant

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Apple truffle strudel from Esquire, Brisbane. Photo: Michelle Smith

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Salted red kangaroo and bunya bunya from Attica, Melbourne. Photo: Jane Holroyd

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Roasted Murray cod grenobloise from Restaurant Hubert, Sydney. Photo: Supplied

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Pad Thai from Long Chim, Perth.

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Poulet vin jaune d’Australie from Bar Brosé, Sydney. Photo: Dominic Lorrimer

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Paperbark-grilled fish from Paper Daisy, Cabarita Beach. Photo: Supplied

  • 17 Australian dishes you must try before you die

    Whole slow-roasted lamb shoulder, Cumulus Inc, Melbourne. Photo: Earl Carter

Of course you’re not planning to die any time soon, but we thought you should know how good the Australian dining scene is right now, just in case.

So here’s a handy glovebox guide to 17 of the most exciting dishes that are happening across the country. Diversity being our middle name, they jump from Japanese-inflected seafood, slow-roasted meats and Australian natives to retro snacks that make drinking even more fun. Together, they represent a new era in Australian gastronomy. Pace yourself. There’s a lot to get through.
 

Roasted Murray cod grenobloise

Where: Restaurant Hubert, Sydney

Why: An impeccably farmed Australian freshwater fish famed for its subtle, snow-white, flaking flesh is wood-roasted and served whole by classics-with-a-twist chef Dan Pepperell​. Bathed in a classic French sauce of brown butter, capers and onions and served by candle-light. It’s a real “event” dish, a magnificent thing in keeping with the nostalgia of this sprawling basement bistro and bar.

restauranthubert.com
 

Salted red kangaroo and bunya bunya

Where: Attica, Melbourne

Why: It’s never a dull moment dining at the highly awarded Attica, as Ben Shewry builds the experience into a unique and almost interactive experience. This is the standout dish, a mind-bending drama queen of salted Uluru kangaroo fillet teamed with purple carrot, native currants, fermented cabbage and a lush bunya bunya puree that is both astringent and lush, primeval and elegant.

attica.com.au

Poulet vin jaune d’Australie

Where: Bar Brosé, Sydney

Why: Because Analiese Gregory is a rising star who brings originality, freshness and great wine-friendly flavours to this long, narrow Darlinghurst bar. And because the busty Holmbrae chicken is bathed in a ladleful of glossy, winey sauce (not the celebrated yellow wine of the Jura but Gregory’s own blend of Pennyweight Oloroso, Tom Shobbrook’s Il Chicco​, and shao hsing), enriched with foie gras butter and crisp chicken-in-a-biskit shards.

barbrose.com.au
 

Slow-roasted parsnip and apple mousse

Where: Brae, Birregurra

Why: Former Mugaritz head chef Dan Hunter created his ground-breaking regional restaurant as “a place to interact with nature and eat from the land”. In his hands, the humble parsnip takes on a new life as a naturally sweet dessert – slow-roasted until it is a crisp, hollowed-out shroud, filled with parsnip and apple mousse under a fizz-wizz of tart, dehydrated apple.

braerestaurant.com

Spanner crab, sake vinegar jelly, brown butter emulsion, pea flower and horseradish

Where: Sepia, Sydney

Why: Because the Queensland spanner crab meat is cooked in butter at 70C to keep its moisture, then dressed in walnut oil and rolled in a very fine sheet of sake vinegar and sake jelly, served on a brown butter creme fraiche and finished with pea flower petals and dehydrated pea dust. Complexity reduced to simplicity: pure Martin Benn.

sepiarestaurant.com.au
 

Apple truffle strudel

Where: Esquire, Brisbane

Why: It makes you rethink the apple. Stanthorpe pink ladies are rotor-sliced, gently cooked, dried, fried and formed into a crisp apple rose, served with a truffle jam made from Malmsey wine, beef stock and fresh Manjimup truffles and a rich mascarpone Chantilly cream. And no, it’s not a dessert.

esquire.net.au
 

Uni, koshihikari rice, salted yolk, fish maw, sweet prawns, umami broth

Where: Quay, Sydney

Why: Peter Gilmore says this is a great representation of his cooking right now, being full of texture and powerfully harmonious flavours. The nutty koshihikari rice is enriched with Port Phillip Bay sea urchin butter, topped with crisp fish maw made from the swim bladder (fish maw) of northern barramundi, served with an intense umami broth made from 30 different ingredients.

quay.com.au
 

Raw Shark Bay saucer scallops with sesame cream

Where: Wildflower, Perth

Why: In this glass-and-steel cube atop boutique hotel COMO The Treasury, chef Jed Gerrard serves raw scallops from Shark Bay, 800 kilometres north of Perth, on a white sesame cream with a gel of apple juice and native basil. An additional apple, wild fennel and chardonnay “snow” falls at the table.

wildflowerperth.com.au

Paperbark-grilled fish

Where: Paper Daisy, Cabarita Beach, NSW

Why: Forget your fish of the day; this is the fish of the year. At this charming beachside boutique hotel Ben Devlin layers blue-eye trevalla in both soft and crisply cooked caramelised onions, seaweed and lemon myrtle, encases it in a sheath of paperbark and grills it over hot coals. It is, quite simply, a great Australian dish.

halcyonhouse.com.au/restaurant
 

Grilled oyster

Where: Igni, Geelong

Why: Chef Aaron Turner (formerly of Loam) is back with a bang at this tucked-away 50-seat treasure down a Geelong laneway. With luck, the opening volley of snacks will include this take-your-breath-away oyster with seaweed and oyster plant, served warm in a porcelain oyster shell.

restaurantigni.com
 

Seasonal agnolotti

Where: LuMi, Sydney

Why: It could be small coins of spelt ravioli holding hot buttery pumpkin puree, or soft capsules of paper-thin agnolotti encasing nonna’s tomato sugo, but it will be extraordinary, as Federico Zanellato​ packs elegance, power, structure, acidity, balance and finesse into the very idea of pasta.

lumidining.com


Schnitty sanga

Where: Fleet, Brunswick Heads

Why: In this tiny restaurant, Astrid McCormack and Josh Lewis redefine how we dine with personal warmth and quietly captivating small courses. The downy-soft, white-bread “schnitty sanga” pairs crumbed sweetbreads and anchovy and mustard mayo in a shock of crisp/soft, hot/cold.

instagram.com/fleetrestaurant
 

Marron, Geraldton wax and watercress

Where: Orana, Adelaide

Why: In Australia, it makes perfect sense for a Scottish/Italian chef with French training to champion indigenous Australia and its powerful, resonant ingredients. That’s how we roll. Hence the relentlessly restless Jock Zonfrillo marries delicate Kangaroo island marron or Coorong mullet with the lime/lemongrass shock of Geraldton wax in this luxurious, evocative dish.

restaurantorana.com
 

Wood-roasted pigeon

Where: Franklin, Hobart

Why: It’s all about the 10-tonne wood-fired Scotch oven in this minimalist concrete-clad, wine-oriented, Tasmania-first restaurant. Uncompromising chef/owner David Moyle roasts whole local pigeons to a bronzed caramel, pressing the bones to extract goodness for the accompanying (very pinot-friendly) sauce.

franklinhobart.com.au
 

Yabby jaffle

Where: Monster Kitchen & Bar, Canberra

Why: Yabbies + horseradish + creme fraiche + chives + lemon juice + gruyere + buttered bread = one hot, crisp, toasty yabby jaffle. Chef Sean McConnell takes comfort food to new heights at Hotel Hotel’s free-wheeling, all-day restaurant.

monsterkitchen.com.au

Pad Thai

Where: Long Chim, Perth

Why: When David Thompson does pad Thai, it’s done properly. So the usual mindless office lunch order is, instead, beautifully eggy, with springy rice noodles, crunchy bean shoots and sweet prawns, with three types of chilli and the traditional white sugar on the side.

longchimperth.com
 

Whole slow-roasted lamb shoulder

Where: Cumulus Inc, Melbourne

Why: Sharing the eight-hour slow-roasted lamb shoulder at Melbourne’s best workaday bistro is a rite of passage. Inspired by a humble worker’s meal in La Rioja in Spain, Andrew McConnell cooks the shoulder sous-vide for eight to 12 hours, then roasts it until the crust caramelises and the meat falls from the bone at the very sight of a fork. Festive, celebratory and delicious.

cumulusinc.com.au


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